Simon Spurr is back. The acclaimed British designer, credited with modernising menswear tailoring, has been appointed as creative director of Italian menswear brand Eidos — a more modern and affordable sub-label of heritage menswear brand Isaia that was launched in 2013. His first Autumn/Winter 2018 collection for the Neapolitan brand will debut in January.
ISAIA "San Leucio" collection for Fall/Winter 2017-2018 presents and re-elaborates different images and moods. The leitmotif pays tribute the silk saga and the legendary Bourbon silk textile workshop of San Leucio, nestled in the bills not far from the magnificent Reggia di Caserta and the pride of the kingdom of Napoli between the 18th and 19th centuries.
The Italian suit is a symbol of style and craftsmanship. When you hear the word "tailor", the first thing that comes in mind is Italy. We selected for you the best bespoke suit tailors in Rome. They are famous with the masterpieces they sew and most of their clients believe in their hands.
Season after season, Christian Louboutin technical virtuosity and signature irreverence take classic men’s styles to the next level, all in pursuit of uncompromising innovation in design. Boundaries, after all, mean little to the designer, with tradition often taken merely as a suggestion whilst fabrics, embellishments, constructions and techniques are reinvented tirelessly.
Michele Latorre founded Sartoria Latorre in 1965, initially as a little local company, to produce made-to-measure suits. During the years, Michele gains experience serving local customers in his small workshop at Locorotondo, a beautiful village, in the very heart of Valle d’Itria, Puglia.
As many of you know, Neapolitan tailoring is famous for the shirt sleeves. But what is this - shirt sleeves? They are called shirt sleeves because these are the very wide sleeves with very high armhole. And what does this mean?
All classes are conducted in a traditional apprenticeship manner and reflect the same learning environment that was presented to Sebastiano Montella and other Italian master tailors of the past. A class of this nature and style is not found anywhere else in the United States.
Orazio Luciano has been making high quality formal and casual garments for the elegant man since early 1990s. Refined classicism and a touch of technical virtuosity are keynotes of the brand and the Neapolitan flair is always there, present in each detail.
When we say 'Neapolitan cut', we inevitably come to the most famous feature of the Neapolitan jacket - soft shoulder. This atlas, which holds on its shoulders, as the Italians say sullespalle, the secret of Italian male elegance, a great lightness achieved in a difficult way, the core of the concept of sprezzatura.
And today, 130 tailors - each dedicated to performing a single step - use only scissors, thimbles, needles and thread to produce 50 entirely handmade jackets and suits per day, made of finest Scottish, English, Irish and Italian yarns, from the highest quality wools to the purest cashmeres. It takes 25 to 30 hours to make a suit and each of them has a little handcrafted details fine-tuned over the decades by Vincenzo Attolini
There are three main things, which distinguish the Neapolitan shoulder:
- lack of padding;
- pleated sleeve heads;
- spalla camicia ('shirt shoulder').